08 September 2016


I've actually got a lot of things on order.  Barneys had their fall bag event, so got some things at that time which haven't been delivered yet. They did have Serge Lutens Tubéreuse Criminelle in the export bottles for sale online, so I ordered one of those directly off the web site.  Observant readers will notice that I already have this in a bell jar.

After dancing around it for years, I also got a bottle of Parfum d'Empire Wazamba.  It definitely works better in cooler weather (and it's been really hot here lately).  I'm looking forward to wearing it later in the year.

I'm not sure I like their new bottles.

01 September 2016

I haven't written here since June.  I've got a few things since then.

L'Artisan Parfumeur Onde Sensuelle
Guerlain Mitsouko edp
Oscar pour Lui
Amouage Interlude
Tauer Perfumes L’Air du Desert Marocain
Serge Lutens Baptême du Feu
L'Artisan Parfumeur Dzing! (backup bottle)
Santa Maria Novella Nostalgia 

Kind of too much to discuss at once, although Nostalgia no longer seems to have that gasoline topnote, and instead smells like a typical woody amber. Disappointing. 

I've ordered some other things, but they have yet to arrive. I'll write about them as they come. 

27 June 2016

Eau des Merveilles

I got a small (1 oz.) bottle of Hermès Eau des Merveilles.  I like Ralf Schwieger pretty much, and was curious.  I have good results usually with Hermès.

I dont know why, but I was expecting this to be sweet.  Not even.  It's rather nice, dry: citrus and the sea. Interestingly, Bruno Fazzolari's horror movie homage, Room 237, smells nearly identical, although the listed notes are very different.  Hmmmmm.....  (EDIT:  I asked my building manager if she thought they smelled the same.  She preferred Room 237 and said it was more feminine and sweeter. Eau des Merveilles smelled masculine to her. )

I also got a bottle of Claude Montana, Montana Black Edition, which was very cheap, and smells it.

I also got a rather large (150 ml) bottle of Bvlgari Eau Parfumée au Thé Bleu, which is not nearly as nice as the Thé Rouge, which has been discontinued.

24 June 2016

A House Divided

On Now Smell This today, the community scent of the day project is A House Divided, or to wear two scents by the same house.

I chose Serge Lutens Santal de Mysore on one wrist.  On the other, I'm wearing Santal Blanc, a recent purchase.

I was in Barneys a couple weeks ago and just happened to try this on and was surprised how much I liked it.  I ended up ordering it directly from the Serge Lutens web site.

Comparing the two, I think I prefer Santal de Mysore.  It smells more like true sandalwood.  I'll have to wear Santal Blanc alone to get an unbiased opinion.  Compared with Santal de Mysore, Santal Blanc smells more of sandalwood with white musk.

I suppose I could have worn Santal Majuscule..... but I don't think it smells of sandalwood at all.

20 June 2016

Powdery Honey

My experience with Francis Kurkdjian has not been a good one.  My first foray into this whole perfumista thing was when I heard rumors that  Davidoff's Zino -- which I had worn monogamously for 20 years  -- was being discontinued, in 2009. I started researching replacements.  I came across Davidoff's Silver Shadow, which sounded like a reasonable facsimile. Boy, was I wrong.  Instead, Silver Shadow proved a dud.  The biggest problem for me is/was that it is extremely powdery.  Disappointed, I researched further, discovered this whole goddamned world, and here I am today, with a collection of well over 250 bottles.

Every since the Silver Shadow fiasco, I have not trusted Francis Kurkdjian one single bit. Nearly every scent created by him that I've tried has also contained this annoying powderiness.  Granted, I have not tried everything he has done. It's just not me, I guess.

In 2010, a year after Maison Francis Kurkdjian was established, he came out with Absolue pour le Soir. I recall being impressed by its skank, in contrast to others I had tried in the line. I had a sample sitting around for years, but never thought about getting a full bottle.

If you've been following me this year, you see that I have been on a honey hunt, and, well, Absolue pour le Soir has a strong honey note, hence its skank. I heard rumors of the perfume's demise, and thought I should probably get a bottle, which I did.

As you'd expect, this is very sweet.  I don't get the skank I recall from when it first came out. It also is every bit as powdery as every other Kurkdjian I have ever tried. My original sample, which is "vintage", as the boys on Basenotes like to say, smells the same, so there are not any reformulation issues that I know of. I do like it, but am again put off by its powderiness. Truth be told, I was aware of its powderiness prior to purchase. I probably should be wearing this in colder weather anyway. It's probably the only Francis Kurkdjian I'll ever shell out for.

28 May 2016


Following Luca Turin's glowing review, I ordered a bottle of Auphorie's Miyako (30 ml).

It is very nice.  I need to wear it more to form a lucid opinion, but, in general, it's good.

I also got a bottle of Comme des Garçons/Artek Standard, 100 ml.

This will be very nice in the summer.

Naoki and I just got back from Puerto Rico.  It's finally hot in Chicago.

14 May 2016


Parfum1 has been having deals of 20% off lately.  I was thinking of getting Serge Lutens L'Incendiare, but unwilling to even shell out the $400 plus needed to do that.  I was interested in a recent Montale:  Honey Aoud. Trebor at Scent for Thought gave it a good review (he is kind of a Montale expert and pretty unforgiving about what he likes and does not like). Gaia at The Non-Blonde also reviewed it positively.  So I ordered it.

It's nice, if sweet.  Cinnamon, but not any oud from what I can tell. Also, the drydown is a bit powdery.  Still, there seems to be a recent trend for honey/oud scents (see also Floris Honey Oud and Vilhelm Parfumerie The Oud Affair -- this last I've tried and, again, while nice, not a lotta oud.  As if I would know the real thing.). Anyway, I like this, in my continued honey hunt.

Bruno Fazzolari teamed up with Antonio Gardoni of Bogue Profumo to issue a limited edition of an alleged perfumer game of The Exquisite Corpse called, appropriately enough, Cadavre Exquis. Only 99 bottles were issued worldwide. Well, I've got one of 'em.

Again, very sweet.  Well it's supposed to be a gourmand. It comes in a plastic ziplock bag of sorts, along with some candies-- including a Mary Jane! -- and a booklet. It's kind of how I imagined Prada Candy to smell (I have no idea).

These might be rough summer wearing.